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What’s new in March 2024?

Find out the latest updates and improvements in Peftrust.

Calculating Emotional Durability: Method & Peftrust New Feature

Emotional durability refers to the product’s capacity to consistently meet and exceed customer satisfaction over an extended period. It’s influenced by two key factors:

  • Product Style: Whether it adheres to timeless (basic) design principles or follows fleeting trends.
  • Product Comfort: Determined by material choices, cut, and size.

During the webinar on Friday, March 8th, the CGDD introduced a method to calculate Emotional Durability, a crucial aspect in assessing non-physical durability for fashion brands. We reveal here how it is calculated and our new Peftrust feature.

 

* Methodology

Here’s how to compute its multiplier.

The Emotional Durability Index (ID) falls between 0.5 and 1.5, penalizing fast fashion. For a fast fashion brand, the multiplier will be 0.5, and for a small sustainable fashion brand, it will be 1.5.

 

The formula is:

 

This method provides a comprehensive approach to assessing emotional durability, highlighting factors such as range diversity, commercialization duration, repair incentives, material composition, and traceability display.

 

  • Collection Range Index

– 100% if range is 0-3000 references.

– 0% if range exceeds 12000 references.

 

 

 

 

  • Commercialization Duration Index

– 100% if duration > 180 days.

– 0% if duration < 60 days.

 

 

 

 

  • Repair Incentive Index

– Assess repair cost vs. new cost.

– If repair cost > 33% of new cost, lower chance of repair.

– Incentives include repair services or guarantees (excluding SMEs).

 

 

 

  • Material Index

– If > 10% synthetic material, index is 0%.

– If > 90% natural fibers (vegetal), index is 50%.

– If > 90% natural fibers (animal), index is 100%.

 

  • Traceability Display Index

– Display of country in each manufacturing step (Formation, Dyeing, Finishing, Manufacturing), index is 100%.

 

 

* Peftrust New Feature

We’ve proactively introduced a feature to incorporate Emotional Durability.

 

We’ve included an adjustable parameter in the form, allowing you to modify the average number of wears by applying a multiplier for emotional durability. You can explore its impact on an experimental basis.

We invite you to explore this new feature and test how increasing the emotional durability of your product can enhance its environmental footprint.

Summary of the French Environmental Labeling Webinar for Clothing

On Friday, March 8th, there was a presentation on the French environmental labeling, aiming to be scientific and robust, focused on apparel. 

  • Method

* Consistent framework with the PEFCR Apparel&Footwear, enhanced with additions to align with the requirements of French environmental labeling.

* Includes 16 environmental impacts from the PEF, with additions such as microfibers, exports outside Europe, and durability affecting environmental cost.

* Three calculation levels equivalent to the DPR.

 

  • Database

* Utilizes Empreinte database, a result of an agreement between ADEME and Ecoinvent, containing 80 raw materials/textile processes.

* Incorporates external contributions like Woolmark and French wool.

* Desegregated data : processes, transports, and energy, and considers various aspects of raw materials such as cotton (bio/non-bio/BCI), wool (merino/standard, feed, etc.), and synthetic materials (energy mixes).

 

  • Methodological Enrichment compared to PEFCR A&F v2.0

* Enriched inventories including ecotoxicity, freshwater, human toxicity (cancer and non-cancer).

* Specific additions on microfibers (biodegradability, release) and exports outside Europe (end-of-life).

* Integrates non-physical durability, with an index accounting for emotional durability taking into account range of collection, commercialization duration, repair incentive, material, traceability display).

 

  • Mandatory Data

Clothing composition, localization of weaving/knitting, dyeing/finishing, manufacuting, and emotional durability information.

 

  • Cut-off

Cut-off rules will be defined.

 

  • Timeline

* Mid-March: Report submitted to Parliament and launch of consultation.

* Late April:  Publication of the decree : presentation of a complete device including format and method.

* Voluntary labeling scheduled for 2024.

Adjustable Ironing Temperature

In the Use Phase, a new feature has been introduced, that allows for the adjustment of the ironing temperature. There are now four options available: average, 110°C, 150°C, and 205°C.

By modifying the default average value, it is possible to gain insights into the environmental impact of the ironing stage. Explore the various temperature settings to understand their respective influences and optimize ironing practices to minimize environmental impact.

 

 

Include Ecobalyse Processes in the form

Ecobalyse processes, such as yarn formation, knitting, weaving, dyeing, and manufacturing, are now included for selection in the process choices section. Ecobalyse processes can be chosen instead of the EF 3.1 processes.

Ecobalyse processes are location-specific. For example, selecting knitting in France will yield different outcomes than choosing knitting in China. Utilize these processes for eco-designing your products and comparing manufacturing plants across various countries.