The launch of the public consultation covers two regulatory texts (a decree and an order) that defines how to calculate and communicate the environmental cost of textile products. It also covers guidelines for labeling and methodology. These are based on Article 2 of Law No. 2021-1104, focused on combating climate change and improving resilience.
Key Objectives
Making environmental costs as measurable as financial prices.
Enabling informed consumer choices.
Combating greenwashing through “green acting rather than greenwashing.”
Driving eco-design across the full lifecycle of products.
January 2025: Submission of the decree to the European Commission.
End of Q1 2025: A year-long testing phase with producers (brands) begins, followed by expansion to distributors.
Differences Between a Decree and an Order
Decree: Establishes general principles and legal obligations for calculating and displaying environmental costs.
Order: Specifies technical details, including the parameters for calculations, product categories, and the methodology.
Ministerial Commitments
On anti-fast fashion laws: The minister supports the principle but notes the complexity of drafting an EU-compliant law.
On enforcement: Determined to prevent free-riders and ensure leadership in developing an EU framework.
Highlights of the Articles in the Order
Article 1: Specifies exclusions, such as single-use textiles, items with over 20% non-textile materials, or electronic components.
Article 2: Defines the calculation methodology, detailed in an official guideline.
Article 3: Establishes the environmental cost calculation unit as the sale unit (1 bundle = 1 sale unit).
The calculation is performed for a specific size, based on the following standard sizes:
Category
EU Size
Description
Baby (0 to 2 years)
1 year (68 cm)
Standard size for babies
Child (2 to 8 years)
6 years (104 cm)
Standard size for young children
Child (9 to 14 years)
10 years (140 cm)
Standard size for older children
Women
38
Standard size for women
Men
50
Standard size for men
Unisex
40
Neutral unisex size
Bra
75B
Standard bra size
Socks for babies
21
Standard size for baby socks
Socks for children
32
Standard size for children’s socks
Socks for women
37
Standard size for women’s socks
Socks for men
42
Standard size for men’s socks
Unisex socks
39
Neutral size for unisex socks
Article 4: Specifies that the environmental cost is calculated for each product type, with a theoretical usage duration assigned to each. For products with multiple textile components, costs are calculated separately for each part and summed. Non-textile accessories are modeled as defined in Article 7.
Product types are:
Product types
Boxers/Briefs
Undershorts
Socks
Shirts
Jeans
Skirts/Dresses
Swimsuits
Coats/Jackets
Pants/Shorts
Sweaters
T-shirts/Polos
Article 5: Details lifecycle impact modeling using the 16 environmental impact categories of PEF Methodology.
Article 6: Introduces the non physical durability coefficient. It is calculated using a formula that combines the below three criteria and their respective weights. This coefficient ranges from 0.67 (minimum) to 1.45 (maximum) and is based on three weighted criteria.
The three weighed criteria are :
Range diversity (40% weight): The maximum number of product variations offered by a brand within a market segment.
Repair incentives (40% weight): The ratio of average repair cost to reference price and whether a repair service is offered.
Traceability display (20% weight): Whether the geographical production stages are clearly indicated.
Article 7: Lists mandatory parameters for the environmental cost calculation. They must be based on specific product data, as detailed in the official methodological guidelines : Product category, Weight, Material composition (materials representing at least 2% of total mass and 5% of total impact) and Location (Yarn production, fabric manufacturing, dyeing/printing/finishing and assembly)
Article 8: Allows additional parameters in the calculation, as defined in the methodological guidelines. Default values can be used if specific data is unavailable, with potential third-party verification.
Article 9: Requires a standardized environmental labeling graphic for display on both physical and digital platforms.
